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Cháo trắng hột vịt muối – món ăn dân dã giữa Sài Gòn

Cháo trắng là món ăn phổ biến chẳng khác gì cơm tấm sườn bì hay hủ tiếu gõ ở Sài Gòn. Món ăn rất đỗi bình dân này có mặt ở những con hẻm của thành phố làm ấm lòng người ăn vào những đêm trời gió hoặc vào những lúc cơn mưa mùa hè ào ào như thác đổ.

Một buổi chiều mưa lất phất, người lữ khách ngồi bên một cái bàn con, dăm ba chiếc ghế đẩu, một cái lò đun thắp bằng than đá và bên trên là một nồi cháo trắng thơm đặc trưng mùi lá dứa. Đồ ăn kèm với cháo cũng giản đơn, nửa cái hột vịt muối chẻ đôi, một nhúm dưa mắm nằm gọn trong dĩa sành con con, thế là đã có một món ăn khuya thi vị mà ấm áp. Sài Gòn bây giờ thay da đổi thịt, món tây tàu đủ cả, những thức ăn lót dạ lúc lỡ bữa hay đơn giản chỉ là thay đổi khẩu vị thì nhiều vô kể. Tuy vậy món cháo trắng hột vịt muối vẫn có một chỗ đứng vững chắc trong lòng người Sài thành.


Hột vịt muối xuất xứ từ Trung Quốc, nhưng nó rất đắc địa ở nông thôn và nơi nghèo khó nhất là vùng quê sông nước. Những hột vịt bọc than đen đã giúp người ta chống chọi được với biết bao cơn đói khi mùa lũ tràn qua làng mạc ruộng đồng. Chỉ có những người từng trong cảnh ngộ ấy mới thấm thía giá trị của một bữa ăn quý đến thế nào.

Ở Sài Gòn, hầu hết người ta ăn cháo như một món ăn thanh cảnh, giặm bụng cho đỡ đói lòng khi đi chơi đêm về, khi chán cơm thèm “cháo”. Người ta có thể ăn cháo với thịt kho tiêu, cá mặn, tôm rang mặn… nhưng món ăn truyền thống với cháo trắng đầu tiên vẫn phải kể đến trứng vịt muối luộc chín. Những tiệm có tiếng không mua hột vịt muối ngoài hàng mà tự tay muối lấy, vừa rẻ lại vừa ngon. Dùng dao cắt đôi trái trứng còn nguyên vỏ, khi ăn dùng muỗng múc từng miếng trứng nhỏ cho vào cháo, to nhỏ, nhiều ít tùy theo khẩu vị và vị mặn của trứng. Lòng đỏ nhạt hơn lòng trắng, rất bùi, ngậy, tưởng như ăn bao nhiêu cũng được. Thứ nữa là dưa mắm làm từ dưa leo hay dưa gang còn xanh, mà thường là dưa gang vì dưa leo trái khá nhỏ – muối với nước mắm cá linh, cá sặc mà thành. Dưa mắm ngon là lát dưa vàng đều, giòn tan, thơm mùi tỏi, vị mặn ngọt vừa phải. Tất cả tạo thành một món cháo hột vịt muối ngon tuyệt.


Khu bán cháo trắng hột vịt muối được nhiều khách lui tới ở Sài Gòn hiện nay nằm trên đường Lý Chính Thắng, đường Xô Viết Nghệ Tĩnh, Điện Biên Phủ… Giá khoảng 5 – 8.000đ/tô. Đang đêm đói bụng, được ăn một tô cháo trắng hột vịt muối thì còn gì bằng, vừa giúp bạn lót dạ lại vừa dễ tiêu. Ăn xong bụng đã hết đói mà vẫn không có cảm giác quá no, quá nặng bụng, đó là tuyệt chiêu của món cháo trắng đêm khuya.

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