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Cơm tấm Sài Gòn

Với cơm tấm, mọi sức sáng tạo nằm gọn trong chén nước mắm chấm kèm. Nước mắm ngon là nắm phần thắng chắc đến 70% trở lên. Bát nước mắm ăn cơm tấm mà loãng toẹt là bị tẩy chay ngay...

Đi công tác Hà Nội chỉ vài ngày mà bất chợt “lên cơn” thèm cơm tấm, những người “ghiền” món ăn vốn dĩ bình dân này sẽ lắc đầu nguầy nguậy trước bất cứ hàng cơm tấm nào được dẫn đến nơi thủ đô, vì nó không có cái “vị Sài Gòn” quen thuộc, cái vị làm cho cơm tấm dường như trở thành “đặc sản” độc tôn của xứ Sài Thành.

Kỳ lạ, vì xứ Sài Gòn này vốn chẳng có gì đáng gọi là đặc sản. Nếu có ai hỏi người Sài Gòn chính gốc rằng thành phố bạn có món gì đáng giới thiệu cho tôi, có khi người ấy bối rối, ngẩn tò te vì chẳng biết phải giới thiệu gì trong số hàng trăm món ăn các xứ tụ hội mà Sài Gòn món gì cũng có, cũng pha sẵn trong từng món ăn một chút đặc trưng riêng của mình, nhưng lại chẳng có món gì thuần chất riêng biệt.

Thế nhưng, cũng cái người Sài Gòn ấy một hôm đi xa có thể sẽ chợt nhận ra rằng, hình như mình bỏ rơi một món hết sức quen thuộc, quen đến nỗi quên phứt khi được hỏi, chỉ nhận ra “đặc sản Sài Gòn” trong cái lúc cuống cuồng tìm một hàng cơm tấm ở nơi xứ lạ, chứ không phải lúc làm “hướng dẫn viên” không chuyên. Bởi dường như món cơm tấm đặc biệt ấy không tìm được ở đâu khác ngoài Sài thành.

Cơm tấm - Món ăn đặc sản của người Sài Gòn

Ngán cơm, thèm… cơm

Sự đời đôi khi chẳng gói gọn trong những thành ngữ quen thuộc “Ngán cơm thèm phở”. Người ta có thể ngán cơm nhà, đòi đổi món, nhưng lại hào hứng với cái món chỉ được “đổi” đi chút xíu xìu xiu, đó là cơm… tấm.

Người Sài Gòn có thể ăn cơm tấm sáng trưa chiều tối. Buổi sáng, bước ra bất cứ đầu hẻm nào, nơi tụ hội đông đúc những hàng quán ăn sáng nui phở bánh canh, thế nào rồi cũng bắt gặp một hàng cơm tấm. Cũng đông đúc rộn rịp không kém gì các hàng khác nếu không muốn nói là đông hơn, các hàng cơm tấm có một “chiêu” quen thuộc quyến rũ người đi đường bằng vỉ thịt nướng tại chỗ bốc khói thơm lừng, tỏa hương ngào ngạt bay xa suốt từng con hẻm.

Còn buổi trưa, “cạnh tranh” quyết liệt với những quán cơm bình dân là hàng cơm tấm, có khi thêm vài món ăn cơm như thịt kho trứng, heo quay, xíu mại… nhưng cốt lõi vẫn là những món quen thuộc đặc trưng của cơm tấm và thứ cơm gạo vỡ khiến người ta khỏi ngán cơm thường, chỉ thế thôi đã đủ hút bớt khách của cơm bình dân.

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Đến buổi chiều tối thì người ta cũng lại lũ lượt đi ăn cơm tấm. Có lẽ món ăn này được ưa chuộng đến vậy vì nó là cơm mà… không phải cơm. Người thèm ăn món gì khác cơm, nhưng lại không nỡ xa rời hạt gạo thì ăn cơm… tấm là hợp lẽ nhất trên đời.

Trước kia, cơm tấm là thứ cơm nhà nghèo, bởi đó là cách tận dụng những hạt tấm - chút đầu mày màu trắng đục nơi đầu hạt gạo - và gạo gãy trong khi xay xát để nấu thành cơm. Nhưng cái thời ấy xa lơ xa lắc rồi. Ngày nay gạo tấm đắt hơn gạo thường, vì kiếm đâu ra đủ tấm đúng nghĩa để phục vụ cho cái thành phố gần chục triệu dân này, thế là người ta lại còn phải ra công làm nát gạo thường để tạo thành “gạo tấm” cho món cơm tấm được ưa chuộng. Thế nên nếu đã ghi bảng “Cơm tấm” thì người bán hàng chẳng ai dại dột nấu cơm bằng loại gạo hạt dài để nhận được lời càu nhàu kèm vẻ mặt nhăn nhó của người ăn, “Cơm này mà cơm tấm à!”

Mà hàng cơm tấm nào cũng thường chỉ có 4 món chủ đạo: sườn nướng, bì, chả trứng, trứng ốp-la. Hơn thua nhau là ở cách ướp sườn sao cho thơm, miếng bì sao cho mượt mà, làm chả trứng sao cho chắc mà không khô, hay trứng ốp-la phải bắt mắt với vành tròn trắng bên ngoài và đốm lòng đỏ vàng hườm bên trong. Thế thôi, chẳng cần phải sáng tạo thêm thức ăn tuyệt chiêu nào khác. Mọi sức sáng tạo nằm gọn trong chén nước mắm chấm kèm. Nước mắm ngon là nắm phần thắng chắc đến 70% trở lên. Bát nước mắm ăn cơm tấm mà loãng toẹt là bị tẩy chay ngay, cho dù sườn nướng có thơm thế nào, món chả trứng nhìn hấp dẫn thế nào…

Cái khoản nước chấm thì là một bí quyết riêng mà chẳng dễ gì hàng nào chỉ cho hàng nào. Có quán dùng nước mắm đường nấu lên rồi mới pha chế, có quán lại độc đáo hơn, dùng nước dừa xiêm nấu nước mắm cho keo… Chỉ biết rằng, thường thì người ta chọn quán cơm tấm ưa thích của mình dựa theo nước mắm hợp khẩu vị. Thế nên những quán cơm tấm nổi tiếng luôn có lượng khách riêng của mình, rất ổn định. Người ta chọn quán vì gần nhà, vì tiện đường, vì món ăn và trên hết vì bát nước chấm hợp ý.
Muôn nẻo đường cơm tấm

Khác với những món ăn khác, chỉ tập trung và nổi tiếng ở một vài địa chỉ hoặc một vài con đường, như “bánh xèo Đinh Công Trứ”, “bánh đa cua sân bay”, “canh bún Nguyễn Đình Chiểu”... Với món cơm tấm, dường như khắp các góc thành phố đều có những hàng cơm tấm thành danh, nườm nượp khách đến theo giờ.

Như quán Ba Ghiền trên đường Đặng Văn Ngữ, đối diện trường Phú Nhuận. Khởi đầu chỉ là quán cơm nhỏ vô danh, sau dần được nhiều người ưa thích, quán được đặt tên, thuê thêm một gian nhà rộng thênh thang và một căn nữa chỉ để… giữ xe, bởi cái hẻm nhỏ kế bên đã không chứa xuể xe khách tới lui. Bắt đầu từ chập tối, khách đông nườm nượp, người ăn tại chỗ, người mua về xôn xao cả một đoạn đường.

Cơm tấm sườn heo

Còn quán cơm tấm trên đường Nguyễn Kiệm cũng đã nổi tiếng cả hai chục năm nay. Từ sáng đến trưa và bán lan đến tận 3, 4 giờ chiều, quán luôn có 2 người đứng trước cửa, chiếc gắp đá luôn tay nướng, trở sườn trên cái máng dài đựng than hồng rực. Những miếng sườn dày cui, mỡ nạc đầy đủ, được ướp vị đậm đà mà không ngọt vốn là “độc chiêu” thu hút khách của quán. Buổi trưa, món ăn khách thường gọi thêm là tô canh cua rau đay - cà pháo và nhiều món ăn thêm ngoài 4 món chính của cơm tấm.

Quán đông đúc, ồn ào, và người ăn thường phải có đủ “bản lĩnh” để quên đi thế giới xung quanh mới ăn được một bữa ngon. Nhưng bao năm nay quán vẫn bán miệt mài, lớp khách này đi, lớp khách kia lại đến, đôi khi đứng ngồi lố nhố vì không đủ chỗ.

Phía quận 3 thì có quán cơm trên lề đường Cao Thắng, ngay trước mặt rạp hát Thanh Vân. Quán này có món chả trứng ngon tuyệt và tô canh chua rau nhút hoặc canh khổ qua nhồi thịt được nhiều người ưa thích. Gần đây rạp sửa chữa, quán cũng dời đi đâu không rõ làm ngơ ngẩn bao khách quen.

Một quán cơm tấm lề đường cũng rất nổi tiếng với nhiều tên gọi khác nhau, ấy là quán “Mai” hay quán “cơm y tế” trên đường Đinh Tiên Hoàng, Bình Thạnh, phía dốc Cầu Bông. Quán chỉ mở vào chập choạng tối và bán đến tận khuya. Đa số khách ăn là dân lao động và những người đi chơi khuya. Quán có món nước chấm và dưa chua rất được ưa chuộng, bên cạnh món bì mượt mà, nhiều thính tỏi nên thơm lừng.

Rồi còn quán cơm tấm ngay chợ Hòa Bình, quán cơm nhỏ trên đường Bùi Thị Xuân, Lê Thị Riêng… Đó là chưa kể đến những quán đã trở thành cả một hệ thống thương hiệu rõ ràng, hội nhập rất nhanh với thời đại mới bên cạnh những “tuyệt chiêu” truyền thống, như TK, và hàng loạt những quán, chuỗi quán mới mở như cơm tấm M, cơm tấm C… Chúng tạo thành một mạng lưới dày đặc những quán cơm tấm với đối tượng khách hàng đa dạng và phục vụ khách trên mọi nẻo đường. Để người thành phố một ngày có đi xa lại thèm cơm tấm và "ngộ" ra món ăn đặc trưng của Sài Gòn.

Nguồn: MNVN

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