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Lẩu bò Sài Gòn

Phố lẩu bò Ngô Thời Nhiệm nổi danh, nhưng hơn nhau còn ăn thua món nước tương chấm bò. Quán Minh nổi tiếng sớm nhất nhưng nước tương không ngon bằng quán bên cạnh nó.

Vua bếp Trần Văn Nghĩa cho rằng ngày trước ở Sài Gòn, người Hoa có món hủ tiếu lòng bò, hủ tiếu bò viên nhưng chưa có món lẩu bò. Sau này cánh thợ nấu đám tiệc khi làm bò, những món độc như pín, nhượng đem nấu lên ăn nóng, nhai tới đâu, đã miệng tới đó nên mới truyền dần ra ngoài.

Nhiều công phu
Vào khoảng những năm 80, 90 pín bò, gân bò giá rất rẻ, cao lắm chưa đến chục ngàn một kílô. Nhưng bây giờ giá pín bò bán sỉ đã tới 60.000đ/kg. Óc bò, tuỷ bò giá cũng cao gấp đôi ba lần, cách đây vài năm giá các nguyên liệu này chỉ vào khoảng 15.000đ/ kg.

Để nấu được nước dùng cho lẩu bò, bếp trưởng quán lẩu bò Nguyễn Hoàng (Q.5) cho biết phải đặt mua cho được xương bò. Giống như nấu phở, nước dùng nấu bằng xương bò mới dậy mùi thơm. Nếu là xương trâu thì phải dùng những gia vị như đại hồi, thảo quả, quế… hơi nặng tay nhằm khử mùi hôi, nhưng nước lèo sẽ bị ảnh hưởng đậm các gia vị này hơn là mùi thơm tự nhiên của bò. Nước dùng lẩu bò tốn nhiều công phu ở giai đoạn ninh xương - ít nhất cũng phải mất 10-12 giờ thì nước mới ngọt và dậy mùi thơm.

Ngon miệng
Tuỳ theo cách nấu của mỗi quán, lẩu bò có hai gu chính. Hương vị nước dùng tương tự như phở, lẩu bò nấu theo gu này thường dùng tương để chấm. Rau ăn kèm là cải bẹ xanh và rau húng quế, ngò gai. Lẩu bò kiểu này được bán tại khu Ngô Thời Nhiệm (Q.3).

Thực ra, lẩu bò gu này chỉ là một biến tấu của tô phở. Vậy nên tinh bột dọn kèm là bánh phở. Nước lèo càng ngon như nước lèo phở, lẩu càng hấp dẫn.

Dân sành ăn không bao giờ kêu lẩu theo sắp đặt của quán, mà kêu một cái lẩu nước lèo, rồi kêu những món phụ tùng bò mà mình ưa thích. Một tô phở nối dài với độ nóng không đổi như thế bảo sao không ngon, vì nó thuộc hàng "siêu phở” rồi! Nhiều người miền Bắc đâm ghiền, nên lẩu bò Sài Gòn cũng đã có mặt ở Hà Nội.

Gu thứ nhì nước lèo cũng như trên, nhưng các nguyên liệu cho vào lẩu có thêm đậu hủ non, khoai môn và nhất là tía tô cắt nhỏ. Rau ăn kèm là cải bẹ xanh, tần ô; riêng quán lẩu bò Hai Châu trên khu Cây Trâm (Q. Gò Vấp) còn có thêm kèo nèo và rau má. Với cách ăn này thì nước chấm thường dùng là chao.

Một biến thể của lẩu bò là món đuôi, pín, gân bò tiềm thuốc bắc, món này lại dùng xà lách xon ăn chung và chấm với muối tiêu.

Lẩu bò lôi cuốn người ăn nhờ vào cảm giác khi nhai, hầu hết các thức trong lẩu đều xừng xực giòn như nhượng, pín, đuôi, gân, lá sách,… Những thứ này không có nhiều vị ngọt của thịt nên bù vào đó là nước dùng của lẩu phải ngọt mà thanh dịu, không ngậy mỡ thì món lẩu mới đúng là siêu phở.


Huyền Trang (Theo Sài Gòn tiếp thị)


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