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Khúc tiếu ngạo tiêu quẩy

Một tiêu, một quẩy hoà hợp với nhau như khúc tiếu ngạo sắt cầm, giản dị mà gắn bó keo sơn, tung hoành ngang dọc từ Nam chí Bắc, món bánh tiêu quẩy luôn làm say đắm lòng khách qua đường, đôi khi dừng lại không chỉ để mua mà còn ngắm cách người ta làm bánh…

Chuyện kể rằng, vào thời nhà Tống bên nước Trung Hoa xa xôi, có đôi vợ chồng Tần Cối ám hại vị tướng tài Nhạc Phi nên bị nhân dân căm hận, từ đó làm ra một thứ bánh bằng bột mì luôn đính kèm một cặp, chiên trong chảo dầu nóng như kết án chiên vạc dầu đối với đôi vợ chồng xấu xa kia. Đó là xuất xứ của chiếc bánh quẩy mà đến nay đã trở nên phổ biến khắp cả Nam Bắc nước ta. Nhưng với thời gian, hàng bánh quẩy nào hiện nay cũng đều có thêm một thứ bánh như đi liền một cặp với bánh quẩy, ấy là bánh tiêu.

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Gọi bánh tiêu, bánh quẩy là món ngon đường phố thì chính xác 100%, vì trong hằng hà sa số những tiệm bánh ngọt nổi tiếng trong nước, trong hàng trăm hàng ngàn loại bánh chất đầy ắp ở những cửa hàng này, không bao giờ có lẫn bánh tiêu bánh quẩy. Người muốn tìm mua loại bánh này chỉ có thể đi dọc những hè phố bình dân nhất để tìm ra một hàng bánh tiêu bánh quẩy. Có lẽ cũng vì đặc điểm 2 loại bánh này là phải phục vụ “một kèm một” với khách hàng, tức là phải có người đứng chiên tại chỗ phục vụ cho từng khách. Ví thử có đến 2, 3 khách thì người đến sau chịu khó chờ vậy, vì bánh muốn ngon phải là loại bánh vừa vớt ra khỏi chảo dầu, còn nóng hôi hổi, lại vừa mềm vừa giòn.


Ảnh: webtretho

Nhưng người đã thích món bánh chiên này thì thường sẵn sàng kiên nhẫn đứng đợi để có những chiếc bánh vừa miệng. Những lúc hàng đông, không hiếm khách giận dỗi bỏ đi vì đợi quá lâu. Chủ hàng cũng đành tặc lưỡi tiếc nuối, chứ chiên sẵn thì bánh lại không ngon, cũng mất khách, lại “mang tiếng”.

Không hiểu sao những gánh hàng bánh tiêu, bánh quẩy đa số đều do đàn ông đứng bán. Những đôi tay thô sần ấy lại cực kỳ khéo léo và uyển chuyển trong khi nhồi bột, cán bột. Vốc một nhúm bột khô rải đều trên bề mặt miếng gỗ đã trơn bóng - cốt để bột nhồi không bị dính - tiếp tục ngắt một cục bột đã ủ cho lên men, nhẹ nhàng vuốt dọc rồi dùng cây lăn cán qua, miếng bột đã được kéo ra thành một dây bột dài mỏng đều. Người bán lại tiếp tục dùng một thanh tre cật mỏng, xắn bột thành từng miếng đều nhau. Xếp chồng hai miếng bột lên rồi dùng một chiếc đũa ấn mạnh ở giữa, thế là đã được miếng bột “chuẩn” để làm bánh quẩy. Còn bánh tiêu thì phải qua công đoạn vốc một nắm mè vất ra giữa miếng gỗ để mè tự rải đều, sau đó mới dùng bột đã ủ đã nhồi cán thành miếng tròn dẹp, một mặt dính mè, một mặt không. Miêu tả lại thì thấy lâu, nhưng thực tế, những động tác ấy người bán cứ làm thoăn thoắt, dường như có thể nhắm mắt lại vẫn thực hiện được chính xác từng ấy công việc. Có khi người bán còn vừa làm vừa đùa giỡn, vừa kể chuyện tiếu lâm để những người đứng quanh xe bánh ồ lên những tiếng cười giòn giã, quên đi thời gian chờ đợi.

Bột chiên dầu

Người ta thường băn khoăn không biết mình đã gọi đúng tên bánh: “giò cháo quẩy”, “dàu chéo quảy” hay “dầu cháo quẩy”? Rồi thì rút lại là bánh quẩy, vừa nhanh gọn vừa đỡ lúng túng chuyện đúng sai. Bánh quẩy nhìn thì đơn giản, nhưng để có chiếc bánh ngon không phải dễ. Thường người bán phải nhồi và ủ bột trước 24 tiếng. Nhưng thời gian ủ, nhiệt độ ủ như thế nào là cả một bí quyết để món bánh chiên lên phồng to và trở thành một chiếc bánh gần như rỗng ruột, mỏng dính và giòn tan. Điều này không phải một sớm một chiều học được. Phải làm từng ngày, quan sát từng chút và phải căn cứ theo cả điều kiện thời tiết mỗi ngày, trời nóng hay mát, hanh hay nồm để gia giảm thời gian, nhiệt độ cho phù hợp. Như thế món bánh mới đạt yêu cầu chất lượng không đổi, và có thế mới giữ được khách quen.


Ảnh: worldpress

Bánh quẩy và bánh tiêu thường bán chung, có lẽ chủ yếu là vì hai loại bột làm bánh này không khác nhau là mấy. Cũng bột mì nhồi với bột khai là chính. Nhưng với bánh quẩy, người ta cho thêm chút muối, chỉ một chút thôi đủ để bánh không lạt lẽo, nhưng vẫn còn giữ được độ ngọt nguyên thủy của bột mì. Còn với bánh tiêu, người ta lại cho thêm ít đường, cũng rất ít, đủ để làm dậy hơn vị ngọt của bột. Vị ngọt của bánh tiêu vì thế rất nhẹ, không như những loại bánh ngọt khác. Với bánh tiêu, người mua cũng không đòi hỏi phải giòn đến như bánh quẩy. Cái hấp dẫn ở bánh tiêu lại là ở những hạt mè thơm ngậy. Những hạt mè trắng li ti sau khi chiên trở nên căng mẩy, quyện với mùi thơm của bột mì chiên giòn trở nên hấp dẫn kỳ lạ. Nếu như bánh quẩy thường được cho vào dùng chung với cháo, với phở thì bánh tiêu thường được dùng kèm với bánh bò. Xẻ đôi chiếc bánh tiêu, kẹp vào giữa miếng bánh bò nữa là được một loại hương vị khác hẳn. Cái mềm xốp của bánh bò khiến bánh tiêu - vốn hơi khô - trở nên dễ ăn hơn, đỡ ngán hơn. Các loại nhân ăn kèm bánh tiêu cũng khá phong phú, tùy sở thích mỗi người. Có người mách nhau kẹp xôi vào giữa, ăn cũng rất ngon, lại có thể thay quà sáng. Có người lại thích nhân “cadé”, là loại nhân làm bằng trứng gà có vị béo ngầy ngậy, rất hợp với bánh tiêu.


Ảnh: muivi

Nếu bạn hỏi bánh tiêu bánh quẩy bán ở đâu, đôi khi nhất thời người được hỏi không nhớ ra nổi. Chỉ biết nói mơ hồ chung chung nơi các xe bánh dọc các con đường loanh quanh quận 5 như đường An Dương Vương, Lê Hồng Phong… hay đường Trần Quang Khải quận 3, đường Hồ Biểu Chánh quận Phú Nhuận… Hoặc ở Hà Nội thì những điểm đầu tiên người ta khuyên bạn đến sẽ là hàng quẩy nóng Cầu Gỗ hay Phan Bội Châu… Có người nói, nguyên bản của “giò cháo quẩy” là đọc trại từ “Du tặc Cối”, tức nấu dầu tên giặc Tần Cối. Có người lại nói đó là chữ “dầu chao quẩy”, tức “bột chiên dầu”. Thôi thì nghĩa sâu xa của bánh, ta có thể không tường, nhưng rõ ràng đây chỉ đơn giản là một loại “bột chiên dầu”, cả bánh tiêu cũng thế. Và chiên thế nào cho ngon, cho khéo là cả một nghệ thuật, để bánh vàng thơm mà không cháy, béo mà không gắt dầu. Có thế thì bánh tiêu bánh quẩy mới có dịp tung hoành, phổ biến khắp Bắc Nam như hiện nay.
 

Theo Món Ngon Việt Nam


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