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Món ngon Miền Nam

Viết về "Xóm Cũ" mà nói chuyện món ngon xem chừng hơi lãng quẻ, phải không thưa các bạn? Nhưng theo tôi nghĩ thì không. "Dĩ thực vi tiên" mà! Miền Nam trù phú là nhờ đất ruộng phì nhiêu đã đành, mà cũng nhờ có nhiều đặc sản nữa. Ẩm thực là một phần của văn hóa của mỗi nước, vậy nói về món ngon miền Nam tức là nói đến văn hóa Việt Nam, phải không bạn? Đi về Xóm Cũ với những món ăn ngon thì thật là tuyệt. Vì vậy, xin cống hiến các bạn những nét độc đáo về "cái ăn" của miền Nam nước Việt chúng tôi.

Xin đi từ phía bắc xuống. Và từ phía bắc của miền Nam này, Phan Thiết là vùng quan trọng, nơi sản xuất nước mắm nổi tiếng mà chắc các bạn đã biết. Nhưng ngoài ra còn có những món ngon khác:

Gỏi cá mai: Đi Phan Thiết mà không ăn gỏi cá mai là còn thiếu sót. Cá mai là một loại cá nhỏ, dẹp như cá thiểu hay cá lòng tong, thân trong. Cá từ dưới biển vớt lên đem chà cho sạch, rồi trộn liền với dấm hay chanh. (Chanh thì ngon hơn dấm). Sau đó mới thêm rau thơm, khế hay ngó sen để những người chưa quen, ăn ít thấy ngán. Chúng tôi có thử món sushi hay lươn sống của người Nhật, thấy không ngon bằng. Con lươn bằng ngón tay mà đem nhai với rau thì ngán miệng hơn là ăn con cá mai nhiều.

Món ngon Miền Nam

Hết cá mai tới còng gió. Loại còng này chạy đầy bãi biển. Nhưng bắt nó không phải là dễ. Phải thấy nhược điểm của nó thì mới dễ bắt. Loại còng này thường hay vùi dưới cát. Có khi hàng ngàn con nằm trên bãi biển mà vừa thấy bóng người là biến mất vì chúng đã vùi xuống cát rồi. Vì thế, người đi bắt còng chỉ cần chận hai đầu cho nó thấy bóng rồi vùi. Thế là ta cứ đến nhìn cái "mà" (chỗ nó vùi còn để lại dấu vết) moi lên. Một lát là đầy giỏ. Người ở đây nếu không bắt "mà" thì gài bẫy. Họ đào một cái lỗ rồi chôn một cái thùng thiếc xuống. Xong, gác một con mắm sống ngang miệng thùng. Đến tối, các chú còng gió đi kiếm ăn, nghe mùi mắm sống là bò lại, rồi đưa càng gắp con mắm và rơi tòm xuống thùng. Chỉ vài tiếng đồng hồ là đầy thùng cho ta nấu cháo.

Muốn nấu cháo còng gió thì lặt bỏ mai, ngắt bỏ ngoe. Còng có nhiều gạch cứ bầm nát. Xong, chờ cho cháo sôi và nhừ thì đổ thịt còng vào. Để một lát là đem xuống nhậu được. Vì còng có nhiều gạch nên ăn nhiều dễ bị Tào Tháo đuổi hay xách quần mà chạy lắm.

Món ngon Miền Nam

Món ngon thứ ba ở Phan thành là con nhông (dông). Đó là loại kỳ nhông ở trên các nổng cát dài theo bãi biển. Dân miền biển gài bẫy cò ke để bắt nhông. Hồi còn học ở trường thể dục Samipic, trưa nào bọn quỷ chúng tôi cũng xách dàn thung xuống bãi để săn nhông. Bắn hạ được vài mươi con đem về để tối nấu cháo ăn thì tuyệt. Thịt nhông ăn như thịt gà, vị mát mà béo hơn gà nhiều.

Giờ xin mời các bạn đi xa hơn về phía Nam. Đến Biên Hòa, ai cũng nghe danh bưởi ngọt. Nhưng phải biết loại bưởi ổi Biên Hòa thì mới là người sành điệu. Bưởi ổi nhỏ trái hơn các loại bưởi khác, nhưng nhiều nước và ngọt lịm, đắt tiền hơn các loại bưởi khác nhiều. Xuống đến Gia Định thì món ổi xá lỵ là ngon nhất. Loại ổi này da không xanh, hơi ửng trắng, vỏ dày và ruột nhỏ. Nhờ dày cơm nên ổi ăn nửa ngọt nửa chua, ăn hoài không biết chán. Rất tiếc vì khó trồng nên về sau này giống ổi xá lỵ da trắng này bị mất giống.

Đi Chợ Lớn thì phải nói đến vườn thơm. Thơm, khóm ở đây ngọt không thua gì thơm, khóm Cầu Đúc, Cần Thơ. Trái thơm xẻ ra tươm đầy mật thiệt hấp dẫn. Thêm vào đó, lòng hiếu khách của chủ rẫy càng làm cho vị thơm ngon ngọt hơn nhiều.

Xuống Mỹ Tho khi vừa tới Trung Lương, là đã nghe tiếng rao: "Mía ghim, mận hồng đào, mận da người đây..." Vùng này có loại mận ngon ngọt nhất miền Nam. Trái mận lớn, da ửng hồng và có sọc, ăn dòn và ngọt lịm.

Vượt qua bến đò Tân Thạnh là đến Bến Tre. Đây là xứ dừa, đi cả ngày cũng không qua hết vườn dừa. Ngoài loại dừa lửa còn có loại dừa xiêm lùn, thân cao chỉ bằng đứa trẻ 6 tuổi, mỗi quày có hơn chục trái. Trưa nắng gắt mà uống một trái dừa xiêm này thì thấm giọng vô cùng.

Xuống Bến Tre rồi băng qua sông Cổ Chiên là đến Trà Vinh. Trước hết, xin mời bạn dùng món điểm tâm độc đáo của Trà Vinh là cơm xíu mại của người Tiều (Triều Châu). Rồi đi xuống miền biển, về Long Toàn hay Ba Động, bạn sẽ gặp một món ngon không nơi nào có, đó là món mắm rươi. Rươi là một loại côn trùng, thân nhỏ như con dời (hay con rít). Về mùa khô hay mùa rươi, thì rươi từ trong các đám lá dừa nước trôi ra theo nước lớn. Người dân vùng này đã chuẩn bị sẵn sàng. Họ nấu nước muối đổ vào lu, đưa xuống ghe. Thấy rươi nổi lên đổ mặt sông là người ta đi vớt. Cứ đổ rươi vào lu, rồi đưa về nhà, phơi nắng. Ít lâu sau thì rươi tan xác, xương lắng xuống đáy lu. Người ta cứ để lu rươi phơi nắng một mùa thì ăn được. Lấy nước rươi đem nấu nước mắm thì ăn ngọt và thơm.

Ở miệt này có nhiều cá kèo, con to gần bằng ngón chân cái, dài độ hai tấc, béo mập vô cùng. Cá kèo mà nấu cháo ăn thì ngọt thủng đáy trả ăn thua, mà đem kho với mắm rươi càng ngon hơn. Thế nên mới có câu:

Cá kèo mà gặp mắm rươi,
Như nơi đất khách gặp người cố tri

Tương truyền rằng vua Gia Long tẩu quốc về đây để ăn loại mắm rươi này, nên về sau người ta đưa ra bán khắp nơi, gọi là nước mắm ngự. Xác rươi lắng xuống đáy lu đem kho khô ăn với chuối, khế và cơm nóng thì còn gì bằng.

Ở Bến Tre còn có một loại chanh đặc biệt gọi là chanh ngọt. Chanh thì chua chớ sao lại ngọt, thế mới là kỳ. Nhưng đó là sự thật. Ông Trương Vĩnh Ký ngày xưa đi Mã Lai và nhiều nước khác đã đem về nhiều loại cây ăn trái cho vùng Cái Mơn này. Chanh ngọt mọc bằng dây, một loại dây leo, lá như lá bưởi, mùi vị như mùi lá chuối. Trái thì giống hệt trái chanh nhưng ăn thì ngọt chứ không chua. Người ta thường có câu hát:

Chừng nào đá nổi rong chìm,
Muối chua chanh mặn anh mới tìm được em.

Tôi nghĩ nói "chanh ngọt" thì đúng hơn, vì trái cây thì có chua, ngọt chớ làm gì có chua, mặn. Mà chuyện anh gặp em cũng thường xảy ra, vì em giận anh lâu ngày hết giận thì anh cũng tìm em được. Trái đất tròn mà. Như vậy, nếu có trái chanh ngọt thì cũng không phải là chuyện lạ, phải không, thưa các bạn? Loại chanh này chỉ duy vùng Cái Mơn là có trồng, có thể vì nó là thứ của lạ chứ không phải là thứ thực dụng cho đời sống hàng ngày.

Về Hậu Giang đến Cần Thơ mà không ăn cá là một thiếu sót rất lớn. Ở các vùng Cần Thơ, Sóc Trăng, Bạc Liêu, Rạch Giá... thì cá chẳng thiếu gì. Có nhiều đìa lớn tát bằng gầu giai đến ba ngày chưa cạn. Nước rút đến nửa đìa thì cá đặc như dòi, nhiều nhất là cá rô. Người ta phải múc cho hết loại cá rô nhỏ này (chừng ba ngón tay) đổ lên sòng thì mới thấy các loại cá lớn. Cá trê vàng bằng cườm chân nướng dầm nước mắm gừng ăn ngon số dách (rất lạ là miền này người ta không ăn mắm rươi, có thể vì nước mắm nhứt của cá rô, cá lóc cũng ngon tương đương). Cá rô mề lớn bằng bàn tay ăn béo ngậy. Ở đây khi bạn xin một con cá thì người ta cho một con cá lóc chớ không bao giờ cho cá rô. Cá rô quý hơn cá lóc nhiều. Nước cạn, cá lóc nằm phơi mình như củi lụt. Có con lớn hơn bắp vế lại có râu, trông rất tiếu lâm. Đó là những con cá nái, người ta sẽ thả lại xuống đìa để lấy giống cho những mùa sau.

Món ngon Miền Nam

Mắm vùng Hậu Giang cũng ngon lắm, nhứt là mắm ruột. Cá lóc làm mắm, đầu cá to bằng cái dĩa bàn, dùng để mời thượng khách. Xưa chúng tôi có đi xuống đồn điền của bạn Lê Đăng Côn và bác sĩ Lê Văn Ngôn. Đây là vùng hậu Cái Răng, Cần Thơ. Anh đãi khách bằng món đầu cá làm mắm và món cháo rằn ri cóc ngon khó quên. Mắm ruột là nguyên bộ ruột con cá lóc nái có trứng làm mắm. Mắm này ăn vừa béo vừa thơm, nhưng coi chừng chạy ra bờ không kịp.

Ở Hậu Giang lươn cũng là món tuyệt hảo. Con lươn vàng lườm, thân to bằng bắp tay, đem hấp với lá nhàu hay lá rau ngổ, rồi ăn với nước mắm nhứt thì quên thôi. Lươn nướng trộn rau răm ăn cũng bắt lắm.

Món ngon Miền Nam

Món chót mà chúng tôi muốn giới thiệu với các bạn là món ba khía. Vùng Bạc Liêu đến mùa ba khía hội (bắt cặp) thì chúng nó bao quanh hết các gốc bần ven sông. Cũng giống như làm mắm rươi thì người ta mang bao tay vào rồi mặc tình mà hốt, bỏ vào lu nước muối. Để ít lâu sau thì ba khía ăn được. Người miệt này thường chở ba khía lên bán ở Sài Gòn. Dọc đường ba khía bị trở thì người ta cứ đái vào. Có lẽ chất ammoniac trong nước tiểu đã sửa cho ba khía hết trở và dân Sài Gòn ăn khen ngon...

"Dĩ thực vi tiên", các bạn có cho câu này là đúng không? Chúng tôi còn cho rằng "dĩ thực vi thiên" nữa là đằng khác. Ăn ngon, ngủ kỹ thì sống lâu, phải không các bạn?


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mon an do
viết bởi nguyen hoang phuong linh, Tháng bảy 07, 2011
nhien thay hap dan ghe đó..nhin thay ma them qua,nhat la mon cuoi cung do

may kon luon nhin ngon wa a`... chep..chep
mon cuoi cung
viết bởi Nguyen Ngoc Phuong, Tháng tám 05, 2011
nhin thay muon nhau lien ak....kakasmilies/grin.gif

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