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Hàu sữa chiên

Hàu sữa chiên hầu như không thấy bán trong các nhà hàng. Ở Sài Gòn, hàu sữa chiên chỉ có vài điểm ở khu quận 5 và được bán trên xe đẩy giống như bột chiên. Chúng được dùng như món ăn chơi vào buổi tối.


Hàu có thể ăn sống (ảnh:photobucket) 

Có hai xe bán hàu sữa chiên khá lâu năm, một ở góc đường Phùng Hưng – Hải Thượng Lãn Ông và một xe nữa ở cuối đường Nguyễn Chí Thanh. Xe hàu chiên Phùng Hưng vậy mà đã qua hai đời. Trước năm 1975 cứ tầm 6 giờ chiều trở đi dù nắng hay mưa, ngày nào người ta cũng thấy hai vợ chồng người Hoa lui cui dọn hàng, nổi lửa, chiên chiên, xào xào cho đến tận nửa đêm dưới ánh đèn đường nơi góc phố.

Nhiều người sống gần đây sau mấy mươi năm định cư ở nước ngoài, về thăm gia đình, chiều tản bộ ra góc phố cũ tìm lại hương vị ngày xưa. Vẫn chiếc xe đẩy với đám bàn ghế xếp được bung dọc hàng hiên, cũng mùi hàu chiên và tiếng xèo xèo vui tai.
 
Nhưng sau mấy cái chảo là hai thanh niên xấp xỉ hai lăm, hai bảy tuổi nhanh nhẹn chiên những mẻ hàu thơm phức. Đó là những người nối nghiệp cho cái quán ven đường quen


Hàu sữa chiên 

Hàu (lớn) chiên khác với hàu sữa chiên ở khẩu vị lẫn cách chế biến, hàu lớn sẽ được nhúng bột từng con và chiên riêng lẻ. Còn hàu sữa chiên mỗi lần chiên là một mẻ lưng chừng chén ăn cơm. Hàu đã được chuẩn bị trước, cho vào một cái tô nhỏ có sẵn hai cái trứng gà.

Với chiếc chảo luôn nóng có sẵn chút mỡ trước mặt, người chiên dùng cái vá múc bột pha sẵn với nước, bằng một động tác chuyên nghiệp như múa, anh ta vẩy từng chút bột xuống mặt chảo thành một cái rế bột. Độ mươi giây, bột đã thành hình, lúc này hàu được đánh lên cùng trứng và hành lá cắt nhỏ đổ lên mặt rế. Nhờ rế bột làm nền mà những con hàu sữa rời rạc liên kết nhau thành mảng. Trở hàu cho vàng đều, dùng xẻng xắn thành những miếng lớn độ ba ngón tay, cho hàu ra dĩa có sẵn cải sà lách, thế là hoàn tất dĩa hàu sữa chiên.

Dĩa hàu vàng rộm điểm đôi ba chỗ cháy sém càng tăng phần hấp dẫn. Nước chấm ăn với hàu sữa chiên phải là nước mắm pha. Xe hàu sữa chiên không tên bao năm qua vẫn ở chỗ cũ, hương vị không thay đổi dù hai vợ chồng người Hoa già đã chuyển nghề cho con.

Khánh Chi


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Về miền Tây mà chưa thưởng thức bún cá (thường được gọi chung là bún nước lèo) là bạn đã bỏ qua hương vị “nhất phẩm” miệt đồng xứ lúa.